I spent three days on the Columbia Ice field, we summited Snow Dome.
Above 2600 meters the HS was 300 cm +. We experience high wind and up to 20 cm HST during this time period between Friday and Sunday (July 3 to July 5th).
In the evening of Saturday, the sun got out a bit creating point release on the western aspects.
As we left Sunday morning very early, we could feel a thick melt/freeze crust up to 2800 meters. Above that, you could feel a breakable wind crust.
Foot pen was anywhere from ankle deep to knee deep.
Around 10:00 AM on Sunday as we were doing crevasse rescue on hard ice on the Athabasca glacier, the sun was starting to shine on the East face of Snow Dome; big icefall and loose avalanches were going off.
Fred Amyot
ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide