Regional Summary Rockies and Columbia Mountains

Weather.

Looks like the nice weather will continue through Saturday with unsettled weather moving in on Saturday evening and hanging around until Monday. Freezing lines are going to be lower than the last week, with snow expected on the higher peaks in the ranges. Up to 5cm of snow above 3000m.

Hazards

1. Rockfall

We have now hit the point in the summer where the snow has retreated revealing many precariously perched rocks. Places such as Bugaboo Snowpatch Col, approach to west ridge of Mt. Fay and some lateral moraines are constantly shedding rocks. Heads up!

2. Glaciers

The Fern line has retreated rapidly in the last weeks warm weather. Many crevasses have opened up and Bergchrunds are becoming increasingly hard to navigate. I don't suspect enough snow to fall on Sunday to start hiding crevasses but we are heading into that time of year.

3. Other Parties

Many areas are seeing a large increase in number of users this summer. Now that conditions are limiting places to go expect objectives to get busier. Good communication can make it possible to all have fun out there however you may choose not to follow another party up a route due to rock fall created by even the most carful of climbers.

General conditions.

Alpine rock climbing is reported to be in excellent shape and should continue to be for a few weeks yet. Not many reports from larger mountains such as Mt Robson however I would suspect conditions to be good on the regular routes with some lingering cornices on ridges from the cooler damp summer. There have been a number of animal encounters this summer, so heads up!

Get out and enjoy it while it lasts

James Madden
ACMG MG
Canadianrockiesrunningadventures.com