Spent Friday climbing Mt Huber and Saturday plonking around on the Odaray Glacier. The Huber and Odaray glaciers have perhaps the most snow I have ever seen at this time of year. The good news is the really good coverage over the crevasses and most schrunds and dry rock below 2700m. The summit ridge of Victoria certainly looked climbable in profile but my guess is that it would be a lot of steep snow sidehilling/traversing and or very fancy snow knife edge walking where one is usually walking/scrambling in dry conditions. The approach from the Huber Glacier is phat so that is a bonus.

The bad news is that routes like W Ridge of Hungabee may not get around to coming into "reasonable" shape this summer if at all. It will be spitting boulders in the afternoon sun for a long while yet while all that snow melts.

Lefroy and Glacier pk look like good snow climbing conditions. Odaray has some snow sticking to the east face above the Odaray Glacier that would require some strategic timing to minimize rockfall and possibly even some high consequence sloughing in the heat of the day gaining the SE ridge. Wiwaxy/Grassi Ridge is completely snow free. Mt Biddle is mostly dry but probably no less loose than in previous millenia. Cathedral mtn is in great shape. Of course all of the snow climbs are dependent on a decent overnight freeze but travel was ok with mostly shallow moist surface snow on Huber and Odaray.

Enjoy the smoke free skies for awhile longer!
Larry Stanier