MCR Summary Rockies and Columbia Mountains, Sept 6

After a great few days of classic fall weather with cold nights and warm sunny days, a frontal system is scheduling an appointment for later Saturday into Sunday. This will bring scattered showers into BC to go with the cooler temperatures, and possible showers onto the divide. (lake Louise area). Freezing levels should be around 3000m dropping a bit on Monday when cooler air moves into the rockies.

Low elevation rock routes are in good shape and despite some rain over the past week the crags are generally dry and good to go. Alpine rock routes on south aspects like Louis, Eisenhower are back in shape while some snow may remain on north sides. Closer to the divide (Lake Louise and Icefields) the peaks received from 10-30cm of snow and a south wind has loaded some northerly aspects and left windslabs in specific locations. On higher elevation solar aspects sluffing and increased rockfall is a concern (observed off Pinnacle in Moraine Lake). Some parties have been carrying avalanche rescue equipment while traveling above 2600m in these locations.
 
Glacier travel is tricky with the new snow offering hard to see crevasses with thin unsupported bridges. Good route finding and lots of probing is essential to getting around safely right now. Bits of alpine water ice have been reported to be forming, but look thin and likely to fall off if you sneeze.
 
Abbot Pass still closed, Ha-Ling closure extended.
Elk rutting season has officially started and bears are hanging out closer to valley bottom with multiple groups encountering them this week.

As the days are rapidly getting shorter and colder don’t forget to replace batteries in your headlamp and throw a few extra cloths in your pack as you head out the door.

James Madden