Climbed Mount Hungabee today via what the Central Rockies Guidebook calls the Upper W face variant (Stanier variation) with Tim Haggarty. On approach, the Opabin glacier still holds snow in the upper section and had good travel. The standard bivy spot looked to still have a decent snow patch for snow melt. The West face is very dry (driest I’ve seen) and in good condition. There are almost no permanent ice patches left up high which usually spit rocks as they heat up. I would highly recommend the upper variation over the “traditional” line in the upper section of the mountain as it’s safer and more aesthetic. If you stay on the ridge proper near the summit the exposure is pretty amazing!
Steve Holeczi
ACMG Mountain Guide