I climbed the Silverhorn route today with 1 client. There’s not much snow left on any of the routes on Athabasca. The crevasse on the last steep slope approaching the base of the route was open, but passable on the left. The route itself was mostly free of snow, but the surface ice was soft enough to make for decent travel.
We descended via the AA col, the scree at the entrance wasn’t that pleasant, but the lower 2/3 of the slope still had enough snow on the climbers left side to make for easy travel. The bergschrund was still bridged in a few places, we chose to cross it on the far left after witnessing several volleys of rocks from the ice face above bounce down across the bridge in the center.
There was another party on the mountain today, they made good time climbing up and down the ramp route which looked to be in good shape.
Jonas Hoke
Apprentice Alpine Guide