Spent a couple of days in the Bugaboos where conditions are close to perfect right now.

There is significant glacial snow coverage compared to recent years, with the firn line at 2500-2700m. Consequently, there aren't many crevasses showing yet and routefinding is straightforward.

The BS Col has snow to within a few meters of the top and just a sliver of the bergschrund is showing on climbers left. Likewise, only a little rockfall has been occurring there so far. However, the established track up the lower half seems to be slightly farther right than usual and we avoided it rather than be exposed to all the melting overhead rubbish on that side.

We climbed in the Crescent Towers and Bugaboo Spire NE. Lightweight crampons were still helpful on the latter, both for the steep exit off the Crescent Glacier and just above the Bugaboo-Crescent Col.

Surprisingly little climbing traffic there this week, with the hut mostly occupied by non-climbers. Even the bugs were not too abundant yet. Maybe the world has moved on?...

Get after it!

Carl Johnston
ACMG Alpine and Rock Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures