I’m sitting at my desk this cool Friday watching the heavy rain through the window. I’m assuming it’s snowing up high, likely right around 2400ms in Jasper but the clouds are not much higher than the top of the pompom on my toque so it’s hard to tell. 3 degrees here and fog, periodic rain, and low clouds in the Icefields; I’d expect the snowline is likely the same.

The weekend weather isn’t looking very good and you can expect even more snow at treeline and above. We are now seeing action on the bigger North Face routes through the Park. Recently, had two parties attempt Grand Central Couloir on Kitchener. Both groups reported thin ice conditions on the upper end of the route and they all backed off safely.

Considering the recent tragic events on the North Face of Mt. Victoria, an extremely close call on the West Face of Edith Cavell and the new snowfall overlying early season accumulation or in some cases bare ice or rock. We recommend all parties anticipate this as a significant hazard on all routes through the Rockies. Groups should consider carrying avalanche gear which should include a beacon, shovel, probe as well as a reliable means of communication (Sat phone, pre-programmed radio, and/or Personal Locating device like an InReach or Spot). Other things to consider are initiating rescue services early when needed and to remember that you’ll be spending a very long night out if you get caught (11+ hours from sunrise to sunset).

Unless circumstances change dramatically, Parks Canada won’t be issuing public Avalanche bulletins until November. We are asking all climbers and skiers to exercise caution and use conservative and careful evaluation when accessing or approaching any avalanche prone slopes. Give said slopes time to stabilize after storms and use conservative protection strategies where consequences of even small slide or sluff might result in death or injury.

I’m daydreaming of the North Face of Edith Cavell myself but I’m going to have to give the new snow time to settle and I’ll be carefully watching the overnight freezes and expected daytime temperatures. I’ll make sure I have a wide margin of good weather and a reliable means of communication knowing, once I get onto the west side of the peak, only a PLB or sat phone will work consistently.

Have a safe Autumn Friends and I hope I don't see any of you!

Deryl Kelly, on behalf of
Jasper Visitor Safety
Parks Canada.