Hi all,
I guided an ascent of the North Ridge of Gimli Peak today. Conditions in the Mulvey Basin are excellent. All rock routes on south facing walls and ridges appear dry and in good nick. Overall there seems to be more remaining winter snow then normal, particularly on north facing alpine terrain. There is still a bit of seeping on north facing rock walls however, most north facing ridges look dry and climbable. Snow travel was excellent today with soft ankle deep snow over a firm base providing secure footing and fast travel conditions. Crampons & ice axe were useful on the steeper north facing slope directly below the Gimli Col.
The descent route on Gimli is mostly dry and there is plenty of water available near the regular campsite. Road access still requires a smaller size vehicle (preferably high clearance 4x4) to get around a giant boulder on the road about 1 km from the parking lot.
Enjoy the sun!
David Lussier
acmg mountain guide
www.summitmountainguides.com