We spent the last few days in the Bugs chasing after the classics. Although generally cool temps and intermittent shower activity all week blunted our ambitions, with the right timing we were able to climb routes on the Crescent Towers, Pigeon (W Ridge) and Bugaboo Spire (Kain).

Between storms we found plenty of verglas and a few cm of fresh snow on shadier aspects above 3000m. Likewise, there are still some cornice issues and a lingering snowpack on top of the higher spires (e.g. the Howsers), so conditions up high in the Bugs still have some room for improvement. It seemed like only the lower elevation spires attracted much attention this week, and mostly just by easier routes.

What the weather lacked, the travel conditions more than made up for. All the glaciers still have excellent coverage, with only the largest slots open and very little ice visible so far. Despite our concerns about thinning, rain-soaked bridges, our probing yielded few unpleasant surprises. Likewise, the approach to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col was still 100% snow covered, with only a hint of the bergshrund beginning to show and just a few signs of rock fall there so far. So, access to the col was refreshingly straightforward. As a result, when visibility wasn't at issue we experienced amazingly fast, easy travel conditions everywhere and needed crampons on only the steepest slopes (e.g. BS col). Nonetheless, in our brief time in the area we did notice quite a bit of change (i.e. new slots, bare ice) and so, in the meantime, we kept the rope on throughout.

Carl Johnston,
ACMG Alpine & Rock Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures