Been cool, grey and damp at Lake O'Hara the past few days but snow conditions have remained surprisingly good and the rock dries fast when the sun comes out.

Excellent conditions on Mt Huber today except for the fog and bit of frost on the rock in the morning. Good coverage on the glacier, the NE face and the North ridge. Victoria looked ok from that side but the bergschrund is already surprisingly open. Passable but it seems to be relatively large compared to others currently.

Good conditions going up to Abbott pass yesterday. One issue is that as you start up the main gully there is good steps in the snow on the left side. It is fast, easy travel but these steps are in the fall line of a huge canyon/gully that occasionally spits out pianos, microwaves and other shaped rocks. A helmet won't help if you meet a high speed piano.

Lefroy, Glacier, Odaray, Wenkchemna/Opabin and Cathedral are all in good shape. Grassi ridge is dry as usual when the rain stops. Hungabee and Biddle are still way too snowy for my tastes.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide