We climbed the Gmoser Route on Louis today.

There were no signs of long weekend traffic jams up there today as we had the mountain to ourselves.

Despite the persistent snowy conditions in higher terrain right now, conditions on Louis were excellent. The approach and descent are completely snow-free, with just the slightest trickle of water running down the raps right now. The last few days of intense storm cells have left a few seeps here and there on the face, and some of the shadier gullies were still a little greasy, but it didn't significantly impact the climbing, and things were drying fast. (Unfortunately, the Gargoyle bivy is currently dry, too.)

The mosquitos are out and about now, nice to have the bug juice. Sadly, the lid to the summit register has been carried off (big mozzies?) so the contents are mostly rat nesting now. If you're headed up that way, maybe bring a temporary fix (e.g. tape and a baggie) until the ACC can get something permanent up there.

Carl Johnston
ACMG Alpine & Rock Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures