Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Climbing Conditions

Guided the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak yesterday (August 31). The crossing of the Boston Glacier is still reasonable with a bit of wandering near the start. The snow blob on the backside of the regular Sharkfin Col crossing has now fallen into the moat so you don't have that to deal with anymore. We used the East Sharkfin Col crossing and had no issues there (one rappel and then an easy scramble to another rappel that puts you on the Boston Glacier). Either one is working well right now.

Getting onto the NW Face of the North Ridge still works. The 'shrund is quite overhanging so be careful approaching the lip. After crossing onto the rock there is approximately 50' of 4th class rock to climb before hitting the upper face. The snow face is starting to melt out and offers screw anchors for the first two pitches and snow for the rest of the face (all climbing is on snow at this point).

We replaced some of the anchors on the West Ridge and Cat Scratch Gullies descent. The one core shot rope on the second rappel in the cat scratch gullies has been replaced with new 8mm cord but the edge on that horn is quite sharp, so I'm guessing the cord will have to be replaced again next summer. All other anchors we used are in good shape.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.