Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Freezing level

Mt. Warren

Climbing Conditions

I guided an ascent of Mt.Warren's SE ridge Aug 23-25th for Alpinism.com This peak is located just north of Mt.Brazeau and is a new addition to the eleven thousanders list at 11014feet. It is a big day (2300m gain, 20kms) from a bivouac at 2700m just below the toe of the Brazeau icefield, approached from Poboktan Creek.
Thursday's front brought snow down to 2600m. 5cms in most areas, closer to 10cms in drifted in areas. This made travel on an already complex glacier very tricky, with weak snow bridges over large crevasses and the new snow hiding the ankle biters. My probing arm is sore today.
-5c and a cold north westerly wind at 0700 this am when we were leaving our camp.
Looked like a similar amount of new snow fell on the bigger peaks in the icefields area.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.