Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

The snow is still lingering in lots of alpine nooks at O'Hara and it is making for some excellent and some terrible conditions.

Mt. Victoria from the Huber Glacier is in fantastic shape. A few days ago I happily walked across a smooth slope where there is usually a nasty bergschrund by this time of year. Summit ridge still has snow but we mainly climbed on rock from the top of the gullies to the summit. Mt. Huber was still snowy but on that day at least it was way too warm by 9am and we gave it a miss.

Lefroy from Abbott Pass looks kinda terrible. My guess is that the windy winter stripped most of the snowpack and now there is some shitty looking mixed climbing to get through the rockbands. Glacier Pk from the Ringrose couloir looks really terrible and will likely stay that way till next spring.

Hungabee West face still has lots of snow on it and with these warm temps it might feel like a badly organized shooting range in the afternoon.

Mt. Odaray SE ridge still has lots of snow patches and cornices above the glacier and the climbing to the col. Until that snow is gone the terrain below the col will be a spooky place when it has sun on it.

Cathedral can probably still be done on snow but the river crossing will likely be deeper than usual for awhile yet.

Happy Trails!
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.