Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Guaranteed Rugged, long climb, mostly scrambling.

Guaranteed Rugged, Marble Canyon

Climbing Conditions

I guided the new route Guaranteed Rugged yesterday. The main hazard is loose rock from ledges on the initial low-angled 18 pitches, while rockfall from some questionable on the steeper headwall pitches (19-24) is more an issue for the leader.

We took 8 1/2 hours on the climbing. Routefinding is exceptionally straightforward due to the bolting and flagging on belay stations as well as trees along the way. The descent trail is also exceptionally highly flagged. On the descent, which took three hours, we chose to rappel the fixed lines.

Grading is soft on the headwall pitches, which is probably a good thing due to the route's proximity to The Goat, which I am told draws a lot of people to their first outdoor multipitch. Guaranteed Rugged would not be an ideal route for a new leader, but its length and grade belie the overall severity of the route

An amazing setting on a route which will hopefully clean up a bit on the headwall pitches with more travel

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.