Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Climbing Conditions

We climbed the 5 pitches of the East Chimney of
Mount Athabasca on Thursday May 12th. 2 hours saw us at the base of the first pitch from the parking lot. From the regular AA col approach it was an hour up wind-packed snow patches and rock slopes with minimal to no avalanche hazard .

The first two ice pitches were not in (likely there in fall) but a moderate traverse in from the left on the first, followed by a moderate step on the second led to the snow bowl and a traverse to a gully up to the main classic 3rd pitch. This pitch features a continuous under-vertical crack which takes good pro and goes at an easy M5. We added an upper pitch out of the junction with the Slawinski Takeda, to a snow walk to a nice flat lunch spot overlooking the AA approach.

By down-climbing the snow we added an anchor to reach the fixed anchors on the S-T, which was rappelled in 3 60 meters. The lower S-T gully was knee deep snow and would be difficult trail-breaking to ascend.

Overall a worthy mini-alpine route that adds another moderate outing to the buttress.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.