Hi MCR Subscribers,

My friend Amanda and I climbed The Sorcerer today.

HST past 24-48h was observed to be ~15cm. The climb spindrifted throughout the day, however the sluffs were light and did not accumulate. Temps at the vehicle at 0630 were -16C, upon return at 1600 -14C. There were spindrift slabs on the approach slope to P1, between P1 and P2, and to access P3.

The climb is currently in very thin conditions. 10cm screws were bottoming out on P1, P2, and P3. P4 (first crux pitch) requires delicate hooking so as not to damage the fragile pillar which has sublimated with the recent chinooks. If you are not comfortable climbing at least 10m without pro, this climb is not in friendly conditions... I chose to build a station behind the pillar instead of using the bolt anchor 5m to the right. 2 of 3 screws were marginal.

P5 is climbing very well, you just have to get to this spectacular pitch.

Amanda and I dug out the belays and the spindrift slabs today. On rappel, most of the slabs had been refilled by new spindrift.

Have a safe weekend!

Brent Peters
Mountain Guide
PeakSTRATAGEM.com