Just spent a week in the bugaboos on two mountaineering courses for Summit mountain guides.
No overnight freezes, yet excellent conditions on snow and glaciers. Rapidly changing and I expect in a week all the guides that we saw hiking in yesterday will report very different conditions.

On our trip the approaches to crescent spire, Brenta, bugaboo glacier, vowel glacier, bugaboo snowpatch col, were all mostly snow with minimal use of crampons and minimal post holing in Boulder fields.

The bergschrund getting to pigeon was the most significant hazard with a detour downhill and bare ice above getting onto the rocks.

The parking lot was less than half full and so were the outhouse barrels. Border closures are not all bad.

We did witness active rock fall out of the col between crescent spire and the crescent towers, as well as out of the climbers right side of the bugaboo-snowpatch col. Another active location for over head rock fall is the climbers right side of the bugaboo glacier a 100m above where you g access the glacier.

The water was not hooked up at appleby but the creek was running. The lakes were still snow and ice filled, with only one safe place for cold plunging. ☺️

The mosquitoes, black flies and horse flies and looking forward to your visit!

I was asked by a climber where the garbage cans were at appleby. Just a fun reminder to pack out what you pack in ☺️

Jennifer Olson
ACMG mountain guide