Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Climbing Conditions

I climbed Mount Temple Greenwood-Locke route with Vincent Lauzon on Tuesday, August 18th.

We witness rockfall coming from the arrowhead upper right tongue. To mitigate, we stayed on the left side rock buttress as high as possible before promptly engaging to the arrowhead, above the right tongue.

The couloir was in good névé, the arrowhead in alpine ice. The first chimney was wet with water running. The crux pitch was wet but climbable at the original grade. A few small snow and ice patches are still present on the upper ledges and final gully but could be by-passed without crampons.

Of note, the traverse ledge on top of the second pitch appears to have more loose material subject to fall than usual for this time of the year, adding to the already high objective hazard for this route.

The route was in fair but not in perfect shape. Time may allow more drying and a better freeze, but it may also bring more wetness and snow up high.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.