Climbing Conditions

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Aftonroe new descent

Guide's Rock, Banff

Climbing Conditions

Aftonroe on Guide's Rock has deservedly been a hugely popular climb for some time now. Descending parties have always had to rap down over others climbing the route in the past. There is now a designated descent which is entirely separate from the main climb and is mainly a walk off.

From the top chains of Aftonroe, make three rappels (30 m, 25 m, 25 m) on the climber’s right side of the Aftonroe climb to reach a good ledge. Note: you can bail from the top of pitch 5 on Aftonroe by traversing climber’s right on the same ledge but a large tree with long branches pushes you onto down sloping slabs with exposure.

Walk the ledge east (towards Banff townsite) sticking to the base of the steeper rock. There is a scuffed in trail with cairns and flagging marking where the trail zig zags down around a tree before heading east again to a fixed rope. The rope leads down a short step into a gully which is traversed to the far side (cairn). Follow cairns and flagging down the scuffed in trail until just above a main gravel filled gully. Instead of entering this gully which may funnel rock fall from others descending above, stay on the descender’s left, in and out of a smaller gully past more cairns until the main gully can be crossed lower down on a level trail which leads back west to the base of the climbs.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.