Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

Today I guided Louise Falls. There is two distinctive lines on the pillar. I chose the right side thinking that it was going to be the easiest line, but for the leader it was very challenging. Not great gear till about 2/3 of the way up and the tool placements didn't feel super positive for about 2 body lengths. Both lines were dry.
On a different note, I would like to bring awareness to a situation that happened there today, which could potentially have killed someone, or caused serious harm.
I arrived first and once my guest arrived at the cave, I noticed another party coming up
underneath us. I was able to explain to them that this was not good practice and highly dangerous for them. They understood and waited in the cave. As I was leading up the pillar in the steeper, un-protectable section, I heard a different party directly below me, heading to the cave. I was releasing large chunks of ice, which were narrowly missing these climbers. At that point, I was too focused to yell or worry about them and realized they were taking a huge risk. This behaviour is completely careless on their part and I feel they put me in a vulnerable position in which I would have to deal with a rescue, or even worse, a fatality. Just a reminder to everyone, seeking ice climbs, to think outside the box and be aware of your surroundings.

Marco Delesalle
IFMGA Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.