Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Good climbing conditions

French Reality, Stanley Headwall, Kootenay National Park

Climbing Conditions

I climbed French Reality yesterday, December 1st with Nic Bussieres. The route is currently in good shape ‎and a bit easier than the guidebook grade.

We approached via the shoulder following an existing snowshoe track, but didn't require snowshoes. Thanks to the party that put that track in. People had also been approaching from directly below the route, which looked to be in good shape as well, but exposes you to avalanche terrain for longer. ‎The exposed traverse slope to the base of the route had a good track beaten in and felt solid underfoot yesterday.

The lower pitches were a mix of rock and thin ice which is delaminating in places‎. Stubbies and rock gear protected it well. The upper ice pitches were harder than they looked with a section of hollow sounding ice, but probably only WI 5+ in current conditions.

Beautiful day to be in the Stanley Valley.

Ian Jackson
ACMG Mountain Guide
Canmore, AB

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.