Simon Parsons and I had a fine day on Mt.Patterson’s east ridge yesterday, Aug 23rd. We used crampons for a short section on the glaciel bench before the start of the 5th class ridge climbing, and again on the glaciel descent into Delta Creek. Although the glacier on descent looks benign, I did punch through one weak snowbridge up to my waist above a decent sized chasm so I recommend having the rope on through this section.
The climbing on the ridge is quite good, with excellent positions and mostly good rock. But like most classic ridge climbs in the Rockies there is a not-so-pleasant descent. The side hilling on hard scree above a swift moving Delta Creek was the most dangerous part of our day. With the height of the creek there are several sections in the canyon that are barely passable at the moment.
I would recommend reversing the ridge by rappel with double ropes and some down climbing.
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On The Map
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.