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Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

Finished a week climbing out of Bachelor pass yesterday, July 30th. Warm, mostly sunny week with some violent thunderstorms Friday night and Saturday early afternoon.

Lots of snow melt during the week, especially up to about 2800m. Low elevation glaciers are mostly bare and flat areas that don't drain are getting "swampy" during day time heating. Sagging crevasse bridges and thinning snow cover meant glacier travel became more complex in even familiar terrain over the week. Bare ice, decent over night recoveries, and scattered icy snow sections on steeper terrain meant crampons were getting more and more use as the week progressed.

Even moderately steep rock was dry(except for any recent rain) on all aspects.

Great place but oh, there is some BIG quartzite blocks that need to be handled with care in that neighbourhood.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.