Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Rockies: Columbia Icefields

Columbia Icefields

Climbing Conditions

We spent May 14-17 on the Columbia Icefields, climbing Stutfield East and West; West, South and North Twins; and Twin Tower.

Travel and climbing conditions were good. We did not see any signs of recent avalanche activity. There are lots of sags everywhere but crevasse bridges seemed strong.

The Athabasca Glacier is in normal to good condition for this time of year.

We noted that the descent from North Twin to the col between N Twin and Twin Tower was more difficult than we have seen in the past. Whereas previously it was just steep snow slopes, this year it is broken up with crevasses, seracs and patches of bare ice. It was quite involved to make this descent and the subsequent re-ascent. We made a few rappels to get down and had to climb a few short pitches of 35 degree ice and snow to get back up. See photo.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.